The hourglass that symbolizes the passage of time is also an indicator of reversal of fortunes when turned upside down. I never realized this harsh reality until I stood before a huge hourglass on a cold winter morning. I stood outside the entrance to a very unique museum at Dunkirque, a very small town on the French coast of the English Channel. I had arrived in the town just a few hours back and the freezing winds across the channel greeted me.As a small child, I was fascinated with war m...