The day begins with a leisurely walk from our apartment in Shin-Okubo, Tokyo’s vibrant Koreatown. The streets here buzz with early deliveries to Korean BBQ joints, the scent of bubbling kimchi jjigae in the air, and the occasional K-pop anthem escaping a shopfront. It’s a neighborhood full of flavor and life, but just a few blocks away, Shinjuku rises—bolder, louder, and endlessly layered. All Seasons Cafe, ShinjukuOur first stop is All Seasons C...